Wat Phumin (วัดภูมินทร์)

Thai. Name of is a renowned Buddhist temple located in the city of Nan, opposite to Wat Phrathat Chang Kham Worawihaan (วัดพระธาตุช้างค้ำวรวิหาร - fig.). In front of it is a large open area called Kaad Khuang (กาดข่วง) Meuang Nan เมืองน่าน), ‘Nan City's Market Square’. According to the Phonsawadaan Nan (พงศาวดารน่าน), i.e. the ‘Nan Chronicles’, Phra Chao Chetabutphrommin (เจตบุตรพรหมินทร์), the ruler of Nan from AD 1591 to 1597, under Burmese occupation, commissioned the construction of Wat Phumin sometime towards the end of his sixth year of reign. Probably founded in 1596, it was recorded in the Khamphi Meuang Neua (คัมภีร์เมืองเหนือ), i.e. the ‘Northern Scriptures’, that the temple was originally named Wat Phrommin (วัดพรหมมินทร์), after this 40th ruler of Nan. The ubosot or prayer hall of Wat Phumin is uniquely designed as a tetrahedral structure, guarded by two large serpents or naga at its entrance. It is the only one in Thailand uniquely constructed in the jaturamuk style, with four entrances, each aligned with the cardinal directions. Inside, the hall is supported by 12 grand teak columns painted in red gilded lacquer and distinctively adorned in the Thai Lu (fig.) architectural style, recognizable from its thick walls with small windows, as well as stairs with broad handrails. Within it, four large Buddha statues (fig.), known as Phra Prathaan Jaturathit, sit back-to-back at the centre, ensuring that every visitor, regardless of the entrance they choose, is greeted by a Buddha. These four Buddha images are seated in the attitude of Maravichaya, i.e. the posture of subduing Mara, the ‘Evil One’. Also referred to as a tetrahedral prayer hall, it appears as though it is seated on the backs of two naga. Unlike the serpents at the front and back, the side entrances are guarded by simha lions, a feature that reflects Burmese influence. Besides the ubosot, the temple complex also includes a wihaan and a principal chedi. Whereas the wihaan is typically aligned in an east-west direction, the ubosot is aligned north-south. Wat Phumin underwent significant renovations in 1867 under the direction of Phra Chao Ananta Woraritthidet (อนันตวรฤทธิเดช), which took seven years to complete. It is believed that the famous murals in the prayer hall were painted during this period. These murals, known as hoop taem, are allegorical depictions in Buddhism, divided into three parts: the jataka or chadok tales, scenes of daily life, and tamnaan pheun baan, i.e. local folk legends, such as of Nan’s Poo and Yah Man (มั่น), depicted in a mural near the western door represented by a man whispering to a woman; this couple, whose names mean ‘Grandfather and Grandmother Steady’, has become an iconic symbol of the temple, and statues of Poo Man and Yah Man are placed in the garden at back of the temple. During World War II, the Thai government featured Wat Phumin on the 1 baht banknote, and a replica of this temple was constructed at Meuang Boraan, i.e. ‘Ancient City’ (fig.), in Samut Prakan. Another notable feature of Wat Phumin is its intricately carved doors, found in all four directions. Each door is made from a single piece of golden teak, 10.16 centimeters thick, and is beautifully adorned with a floral pattern of vines, flowers, and leaves—reflecting the exquisite craftsmanship of Nan’s artisans. Adjacent to Wat Phumin’s prayer hall stands a white dome-shaped structure that vividly depicts narok, the Buddhist hell (fig.). Inside, you’ll find representations of Phra Malai, a legendary Sinhalese monk, floating in the air while holding a palm leaf fan. According to tradition, Phra Malai journeyed through the various realms of hell, hovering above the inferno and witnessing the torments suffered by the damned (fig.). The souls in the underworld implored Phra Malai to return to the human world and urge their relatives to lead virtuous lives, so they might avoid the agony and suffering they endured in hell. Acting as their witness and ambassador, Phra Malai also visited the heavens and conveyed his observations to the human world, bridging the gap between the mortal and divine realms. Narok derives from the Sanskrit word naraka and refers to a place comparable to Christian purgatory. This realm is divided into eight pits, with the deepest pit, called awejih, reserved for those guilty of the most severe sins. Hell is presided over by Yama, known in Thai as Phra Yom or Yommaraat, the ‘King of the Realm of Death.’ This hall, adorned with horrifying images, depicts Yommabaan, Phra Yom's aides, administering cruel punishments to the wicked in the underworld. The scenes include punishments for various sins: adulterers are forced to climb a thorny ton ngiw trunk (fig.) naked, liars have their tongues cut out, alcoholics are boiled alive, and those who gambled on cockfights (fig.) are given rooster heads. These images serve as a tool for monks and novices to contemplate and meditate upon.Wat Phumin also has its own dragon longboat that competes for the temple in boat races, a proud symbol of Nan’s cultural heritage. This is reflected in the many thematic street lanterns (fig.) along the temple and at various locations around town (fig.). See MAP, WATCH VIDEO and VIDEO (EN). 回