Wat Doi Ngam Meuang (วัดดอยงำเมือง)
is a small hilltop temple in the city of Chiang Rai (เชียงราย).
Located on a hill, the temple is accessible via a long staircase
flanked with naga-balustrades, that leads to a double wooden gate of
which the large doors have been elaborately carved with on one side
scenes from Buddhism, such as the Buddha's descent from the
Tavatimsa Heaven, and Siddhartha (सिद्धार्थ) in the maravijaya (मारविजया,
มารวิชัย) pose with Bhumidevi (ภูมิเทวิ), i.e. Mae Phra Thoranee (แม่พระธรณี),
the goddess of earth, who appeared as a witness of the Buddha's
accumulated merits from earlier lives, just before the moment of his
Enlightenment and here depicted wringing water from her hair, thus
aiding the Buddha in his resistance against Mara (मार), i.e. the
‘destroyer’, also known as the tempter or the evil one, by flushing
his army of spirits away, saving the Buddha from the temptation of
desire. Adjacent to it, passed this entrance, eight tall wooden
pillars have been erected, their number representative for the
Buddha's Eightfold Path. Each one displays bas-relief carvings with
scenes from history, depicting mostly local village life, as well as
mahouts and the king on elephants. On the plateau next to the main
prayer hall is a brick chedi (เจดีย์), an ancient monument known as
Ku Phra Chao Mengrai (กู่พระเจ้าเม็งราย), i.e. a ku (กู่) or stupa
containing the ashes Pho Khun Mengrai (พ่อขุนเม็งราย), who in 1262
AD founded the city that was named after him and whose statue is
erected in the front of the stupa. Adjacent to the monument are
statues of white horses and a white elephant. Whereas the latter is
an animal which in Buddhist nations is regarded as sacred and a
symbol of royal might, and which is believed to bring good fortune
to any nation that posses it, the horses are a symbol of power,
freedom and independence. The stupa was built by Phaya Chai
Songkhram (พญาไชยสงคราม), the son of King Mengrai and his successor.
To the left of the staircase that leads to the main prayer hall, is
a statue of Phra Upakhut (พระอุปคุต), a Buddhist deity, who is
believed to protect and have authority over all water, and is hence
called upon to protect seafaring people, as well as to ask for rain,
or alternatively, to stop the rain. In Thailand, he is believed to
eradicate any obstacles to progress, and to vanquish danger. He is
portrayed in a seated half lotus position, i.e. the right foot
resting on the left thighbone and the left foot under the right
thigh, with his head slightly tilted up, as if looking at the sky,
and holding an alms bowl in one hand, while putting the fingers of
his other hand into the bowl, a mudra (मुद्रा) or ‘hand position’
that in Buddhist iconography normally refers to eating from an alms
bowl. On a slope in front of the temple is a statue of the Hindu god
Ganesha (श्रीगणेश), represented with a human body and the head of an
elephant, with one tusk broken off, and here painted silver and
gold, reminiscent of the silver and gold trees used as the annual
tribute that vassal states in the past were required to pay to the
ruling kings, as an indication of their loyalty.
回 |