Rising proudly above the banks of
the Var River, the fortified town of Entrevaux stands as a striking reminder of
France’s medieval past. After incursions by Saracens and the destruction of the
old town of Glandèves—which had become a bishopric by the 6th century—the more
defensible medieval town of Entrevaux was founded in the 11th century. It rose
on a rocky spur at the bend of the river, with its earliest recorded name,
Interrivos, dating to 1040. Between 1481 and 1487, Provence was incorporated
into the Kingdom of France. In 1536, during the wars between François I of
France and Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, Entrevaux was seized by imperial
troops after its lord, Jacques de Glandèves, betrayed the town. Many inhabitants
were massacred, but the survivors rose in revolt, killed the imperial governor,
and offered the town to the French Dauphin (the future King Henri II). In
gratitude, François I granted Entrevaux the municipal charter of Avignon,
declared it a royal town, and exempted its inhabitants from certain taxes. By
the 16th century, the bishop’s seat at Glandèves Cathedral had been abandoned,
and a new cathedral was built within Entrevaux itself—though it remained
formally the episcopal seat of the Bishop of Glandèves. It functioned as a
cathedral until 1790, when the diocese was suppressed during the French
Revolution, and it was officially abolished in 1801 under the Concordat. In
1658, a fortified bridge with towers and a portcullis was built over the Var—today’s
Porte Royale. Later, in 1690, the renowned military engineer Sébastien Le
Prestre de Vauban devised plans to reinforce Entrevaux’s defences, recognising
its strategic role guarding the Var Valley and the frontier with Savoy. Though
his designs were not fully realised, the citadel above the town was
strengthened, particularly on its more vulnerable side, and a secure covered
walkway was constructed up the mountain slope. Two smaller forts were added,
while the main gates—now known as the Porte d’Italie and the Porte de
France—were fortified. In June 1707, during the War of the Spanish Succession,
Entrevaux withstood a brief siege by Savoyard forces under Chevalier Blaignac
before being relieved by French troops. The citadel remained in military use for
centuries and was last used during the First World War, when it housed German
officers as prisoners of war. In 2009, the former Diocese of Glandèves was
restored in name as a Latin titular see of episcopal rank, now bearing the
modern title of Entrevaux. Guarded by imposing stone ramparts and accessed
through monumental gates and a drawbridge, this historic village was designed to
withstand centuries of conflict. High above the town, the Citadel of Entrevaux
clings dramatically to the rocky ridge, accessible only by a steep zigzagging
path that rewards the climb with sweeping views over the valley. From its
vantage point, one can admire the serpentine course of the Var River as it
carves its way through rugged terrain. The surrounding Gorges of the Var add to
the sense of grandeur, their cliffs and wild landscapes framing the town in a
natural fortress of stone. From here, we continue on to the Grès d’Annot, a
spectacular natural site nestled in the heart of southeastern France’s Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.
Renowned for its dramatic sandstone cliffs, the landscape feels almost
otherworldly, with towering rocks rising sharply above narrow gorges and winding
trails. Visitors can explore a network of hiking paths and climbing routes, each
offering breathtaking views of the surrounding scenery. We, however, are merely
passing through, and with darkness approaching, only have time to admire its
rugged formations from a distance. By the time we reach Lac de Castillon,
darkness is already falling. Fed by the Verdon River, this striking reservoir
lies nestled in the Prealps of Upper Provence. Its vivid turquoise waters
stretch across a narrow valley, reflecting the surrounding mountains and
creating a landscape that is at once serene and dramatic. Still in need of a
place to sleep, we continue on to Sisteron, arriving around midnight. The
hilltop citadel glows softly in the darkness, its illuminated walls standing out
against the night sky. Perched dramatically atop a rocky promontory overlooking
the Durance River, the Sisteron Citadel dominates the town with its commanding
presence. Often called the ‘Gateway to Provence’, this medieval fortress was
expanded and fortified over centuries to guard the narrow passage of the river.
Its massive stone walls, bastions, and towers rise sharply from the cliffs,
evoking a sense of impregnable strength. In the morning, we continue our scenic
route through Garde-Colombe, pausing briefly on a bridge over the Buëch River
near the town of Serres. From there, we pass through Lalley in
Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes before reaching the Rhône River at Jons, just east of Lyon.
Here, the Canal de Miribel runs alongside the Rhône, spanned by a charming
covered bridge—a quaint, historic structure that draws the eye with its wooden
beams and traditional design.
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