Join us on a road trip through South Tyrol, the heart of the Italian Alps, from
the Brenner Pass to Amaro, a small town near Tolmezzo. Our journey begins in
Vipiteno, also known as Sterzing, one of the northernmost towns in Italy.
Nestled in the upper Isarco Valley close to the Brenner Pass, the town has
medieval roots and prospered under the Counts of Tyrol and later the Habsburgs
through silver mining in the nearby Ridanna Valley. Its old centre is lined with
colourful merchant houses, and the slender Torre delle Dodici, or Zwölferturm,
stands as its most recognisable landmark. Rising above the Isarco Valley, just
beyond the town, is Castle Tasso, a remarkably preserved fortress built in the
12th century by the Lords of Stilves. Later owned by the Trautson family, it
retains its Romanesque and Gothic features, from the chapel and knights’ hall to
its drawbridge and tower. The castle occupies a commanding hilltop position,
overlooking the Isarco Valley and the ancient trade route linking northern and
southern Europe. First mentioned in 1241, it was already being rebuilt at that
time, suggesting even earlier origins. Positioned strategically along the
Brenner Pass route, the fortress formed part of a defensive network with other
nearby castles, protecting trade and travel through the valley. The castle
consists of upper and lower sections, with a distinctive round keep and a chapel
dedicated to Saint Erasmus. Over the centuries, it passed through several noble
families and became part of the Auersperg family’s estate in 1775. During the
Second World War, Castel Pietra suffered heavy damage from bombing due to its
proximity to the Brenner railway line. It was later restored through cooperation
between private owners and cultural heritage authorities. Today, the castle
remains privately owned and closed to the public, but its stone walls still
dominate the landscape. According to local legend, the ghost of a knight who was
killed out of jealousy is said to haunt the castle’s grounds. A few kilometres
to the south lies Campo di Trens, or Freienfeld, a quiet area of meadows and
scattered farms. Its main church, Maria Trens, has been a Marian pilgrimage site
since the fifteenth century and houses a revered statue of the Virgin Mary. The
road continues towards Fortezza, or Franzensfeste, where the massive Habsburg
fortress built between 1833 and 1838 dominates the valley. Constructed from
granite under Emperor Ferdinand I, the Franzensfeste Fortress guarded the
southern approach to the Brenner Pass with its multi-tiered structure of
barracks, tunnels, and ramparts. Beside it lies the artificial Lake of Fortezza,
created by a dam on the Isarco River. From here, trails lead into the
surrounding mountains, offering wide views of the valley and the stone
fortifications below. Southward, the road crosses the plateau of Naz-Sciaves, a
fertile landscape of orchards and villages with panoramic views of the
Dolomites. Near Rio di Pusteria, or Mühlbach, the ruins of Mühlbacher Klause
rise beside the road. This medieval toll station, built in the thirteenth
century by the Counts of Tyrol, once controlled traffic between the Isarco and
Puster valleys. Though partly ruined, its walls and gate structures still convey
its strategic importance as a frontier post. The route then enters the Puster
Valley, passing Vandoies and Chienes, where gentle slopes, pine forests, and
meadows stretch along the Rienza River. The landscape broadens at San Lorenzo di
Sebato, a place of scenic confluence where the Gader River meets the Rienza.
Here, the remains of the Roman road station Sebatum recall the Via Claudia
Augusta, the ancient route linking northern Italy with the Danube region. The
setting, framed by alpine streams and wooded hills, marks the entrance to the
Val Badia. Further east, the road passes through Perca, Villa di Sotto, and
Valdaora. These villages lie between the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Dolomites to the
south and the Rieserferner mountains to the north, an area known for its
pastures, forests, and mountain lakes. We pass by Lago di Valdaora, an
artificial lake created in the 1950s as a reservoir for hydroelectric power
generation on the Rienza River. The lake sits at an elevation of about 1,080
metres and is surrounded by forested slopes and mountain meadows, blending
harmoniously into the Alpine landscape. Near Monguelfo, a small lake reflects the
surrounding ridges, and above the village stands Welsperg Castle, a
twelfth-century fortress that once belonged to the Lords of Welsberg. Its thick
stone walls and watchtower look across the Puster Valley toward the Dolomites.
Our next stop is Sesto, or Sexten, set amid some of the most striking mountain
scenery in the Alps. The Sesto Dolomites form a dramatic backdrop, dominated by
the peaks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The village retains its Tyrolean charm
and serves as a base for mountain hikes. The area was part of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1919 and witnessed intense fighting during the
First World War. We reach a bridge spanning the Rio di Sesto, known in German as
Sextner Bach, a clear mountain stream that flows through the village before
eventually joining the Rienza River further downstream. The village of Sesto, or
Sexten, derives its name from the Latin phrase ad horam sextam, meaning "at the
sixth hour," referring to its location south of San Candido (Innichen in
German), which is known for its abbey founded in 769 AD. The village first
appears under the name Sexta in historic records dating from 965 AD, reflecting
its connections to the Bavarian Prince-Bishopric of Freising. Tyrol-style
chalets are traditional Alpine houses commonly found in the Tyrol region of
Austria and northern Italy. Typically built from timber and stone, these chalets
are designed to withstand harsh mountain winters while blending harmoniously
with the landscape. They feature gently sloping or steeply pitched roofs to shed
snow efficiently, wide overhanging eaves, and often balconies adorned with
carved wooden railings. The facades frequently display wooden paneling or
stucco, sometimes decorated with painted motifs or floral patterns. Inside,
exposed wooden beams, cozy living spaces, and fireplaces create warmth and
comfort. Tyrol-style chalets share many similarities with Swiss chalets, as both
originate from Alpine regions and were designed to cope with heavy snow, cold
weather, and mountainous terrain. Common features include wooden construction,
steeply pitched roofs, overhanging eaves, balconies, and rustic interiors with
exposed beams. However, there are subtle differences: Tyrol-style chalets often
emphasize verticality and may include more decorative wood carvings and painted
motifs on facades, reflecting Austrian and South Tyrolean traditions, whereas
Swiss chalets tend to have broader, gently sloping roofs and a more horizontal
emphasis, sometimes with larger balconies that wrap around the building,
reflecting the Swiss aesthetic of expansive alpine views. In short, the two
styles are closely related but exhibit regional variations in proportion,
ornamentation, and roof design, combining functionality, durability, and rustic
charm to reflect centuries of Alpine architectural tradition. Sesto has a
population of only around 1,900 inhabitants, a number that has remained fairly
stable over the years, with a modest balance between births and departures. Most
residents are German-speaking, reflecting the region’s strong Tyrolean roots,
while only a small number speak Italian or Ladin. The village’s traditional
hamlets—such as Moso (Moos), San Giuseppe, and Waldheim—preserve a strong sense
of local identity, where life continues at a measured pace in tune with the
surrounding landscape. Tourism forms the backbone of Sesto’s modern economy,
drawing visitors year-round to explore the dramatic scenery of the Sesto
Dolomites and the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo. In summer, hikers and climbers
traverse the mountain trails, while in winter the slopes transform into a haven
for skiers and cross-country enthusiasts. Yet beneath the influence of tourism,
Sesto retains its agricultural traditions: alpine farming, dairy production, and
the making of local cheese still play a role in sustaining village life. Along
the main road in Sesto stands a sundial—a device that measures time by the
position of the sun. It features a gnomon, the upright element that casts a
shadow, set against a dial plate marked with the hours, allowing observers to
read local solar time from the shadow it traces across the calibrated surface as
the sun moves through the sky. This sundial pays tribute to Sesto’s remarkable
natural counterpart, the “Sesto Sundial”—a phenomenon in which sunlight shifts
across five distinct peaks of the Sesto Dolomites, marking the passage of time
like a vast mountain clock. From the village, one can watch the sun move from
one illuminated summit to the next, telling the hour by the light on the
mountains as the peaks align in a striking natural order. This harmony between
landscape and daily life beautifully reflects how Alpine communities once lived
in rhythm with nature itself. Crossing into the province of Belluno, the route descends into
the Comelico valley. The villages of Dosoledo, Candide, and San Nicolò di
Comelico are known for their timber houses and alpine churches. The parish
church of San Nicolò holds frescoes and carved wooden altars that reflect the
valley’s artistic tradition. At Santo Stefano di Cadore, where the Piave and
Padola rivers meet, the valley widens into a basin once important for timber
trade and alpine pasturing. Nearby Campolongo is surrounded by dense forest and
meadows typical of the eastern Dolomites. Following the upper Piave Valley, the
drive continues through San Pietro di Cadore and Presenaio toward Sappada, also
known by its Germanic name Plodn. At over 1,200 metres in altitude, Sappada
preserves its unique heritage of wooden alpine houses and a dialect of Germanic
origin, a reminder of its historical links with Carinthia before becoming part
of Italy in 1919. The surrounding peaks of the Sappada Dolomites, including
Monte Peralba, form the source of the Piave River and frame a landscape of
pastures and forested slopes. The road ascends to Granvilla and Cima Sappada,
small hamlets where alpine meadows open to views of the Carnic Alps. Traditional
wooden houses and hay barns stand scattered across the hillsides, marking the
transition from the Veneto region into Friuli Venezia Giulia. From here the
descent begins toward Tolmezzo, the main town of Carnia. Once under the
Patriarchate of Aquileia and later the Republic of Venice, Tolmezzo developed as
a centre for trade and crafts in the Tagliamento Valley. Its historic core
contains eighteenth-century buildings and the Cathedral of San Martino. Our
journey concludes near Amaro, a small town at the foot of the Carnic Alps near
the Tagliamento River. It is surrounded by limestone peaks and forests,
dominated by Monte Amariana, whose sharp profile rises above the valley. Amaro
marks the end of a route that traverses mountain passes, fortress valleys,
alpine villages, and the changing landscapes from South Tyrol to Friuli.
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