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Join
us on a warm spring day in Antwerp, on a walk that traces a rich narrative
through the city’s historic heart, where every street name and landmark reveals
a layer of its past. Beginning at Meirbrug, once a bridge over marshy waterways,
the route moves into a landscape shaped by commerce and transformation, marked
by the rise of the Boerentoren or ‘Farmers’ Tower’ and the authority of the
Episcopal Palace. At the Groenplaats, the city’s artistic soul emerges through
the statue of Petro Paulo Rubens, before the path leads to the towering
Cathedral of Our Lady and the legacy of its architect Jan Appelmans. Nearby, the
legend of Silvius Brabo and Druon Antigoon brings myth into the urban fabric,
explaining the very name of the city. The legend tells how a fearsome giant,
Antigoon, lived along the River Scheldt and demanded a toll from all who passed.
Those who refused had their hands cut off. A Roman soldier, Brabo, challenged
and defeated the giant. He then cut off Antigoon’s hand and threw it into the
river. According to tradition, this act gave rise to the name Antwerpen, from
the Dutch hand werpen, meaning ‘to throw [the] hand’. The journey continues into
the grandeur of the Grote Markt, where, at its centre, a monumental fountain
depicts Brabo triumphantly casting away the severed hand of the slain giant
Antigoon, whose lifeless body lies at his feet. The majestic fountain stands
before the Renaissance Antwerp City Hall, framed by a ring of ornate guild
houses that reflect Antwerp’s Golden Age as a global trading hub. Inside the
City Hall, exhibitions trace the city’s evolution through time, displaying
artefacts from archaeological excavations, representations of the cathedral’s
belfry, and the gradual expansion of Antwerp alongside the growth of its harbour
and its later development into one of Europe’s Chief port cities. From there,
the route follows the traces of industry and commerce—coopers, butchers, and
merchants—through streets like Kuiperstraat, i.e. ’Coopers’ Street’ or ’Barrel
Maker Street’, referring to the craftsmen who made wooden barrels, essential for
storing and transporting goods such as beer, wine, and grain in Antwerp’s
trading economy, and past the historic Vleeshuis, literally meaning the ‘Meat
Hall‘, which was the guild house of the butchers. Built in the early 16th
century, it served as a centre for the meat trade, where butchers regulated
their profession and sold their products. Reaching the Scheldt, the imposing Het
Steen recalls the city’s defensive and maritime past. Het Steen, meaning ’The
Stone’, is the oldest surviving building in Antwerp and a key witness to the
city’s early history along the River Scheldt. Built of durable stone, the
construction distinguishing itself from earlier wooden structures. Originally
constructed around 1200–1225, it formed part of a larger fortified complex built
after the Holy Roman Emperor Otto IV granted Antwerp city rights. At that time,
the settlement needed stronger defences against both river-based attacks and
regional conflicts. It is strategically positioned along the Scheldt to control
access to the river, which was already becoming a vital artery for trade, and
functioned as a gate and stronghold, integrated into the city’s first defensive
walls. In the 16th century, under the rule of Charles V, the building was
significantly enlarged and renovated. Much of the structure visible today dates
from this period, including its imposing entrance and late-Gothic features.
During this time, however, Het Steen also took on a darker role as a prison. It
housed criminals, debtors, and occasionally those accused of heresy during the
turbulent years of religious conflict. High above the Steen in Antwerp, a yellow
lion with a red tongue and claws rises against a black field, catching the wind
like it has done for centuries. This is the Brabantine Lion, a flag that has
watched over the city through conquest, rebellion, and renewal. Long ago, when
Emperor Charles V sold the old fortress to Antwerp, he made a curious demand:
the banner of Brabant must always fly above its towers. It was more than a
condition of sale—it was a reminder of power, heritage, and the shifting hands
of history. By the 19th century, much of the surrounding fortress had been
demolished as Antwerp expanded and modernised, leaving Het Steen as a solitary
remnant of the medieval defences. In front of the building stands a statue of
Lange Wapper, a folkloric figure said to have haunted the city, further
embedding the site in local legend. In the 20th century, Het Steen was
repurposed as a museum, at one point housing maritime collections that reflected
Antwerp’s long relationship with the river and the sea. Today, it serves as a
visitor centre and cultural landmark. We return through the streets named for
trades and markets before ending at the corner of the Melkmarkt and Eiermarkt,
i.e. the ’milk market’ and ’egg market’.
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